Wednesday, September 21, 2011

The Equinox

Today is the equinox, autumnal or vernal, depending on which hemisphere you have found yourself in.  Equinox meaning equal time where the sun is above and below the horizon.  The sun makes the crossing from the Northern Hemisphere to the Southern Hemisphere and thereby denotes a new season for both.  One of my favorite days of the year, ever since learning the wonders of celestial geometry during my semester with Sea Education Association more than ten years ago. 

My equinox was spent working on our solar projects – one project of the scientists, one for the South Pole.  (The sun rises at the pole today, having set six months ago.  It must be a happy day for the Polies!)  After work, a run on the treadmill, a dinner with friends and then some work on the ol’ computer. 

On my way back to my dorm (building #201), from building 155, I saw the equinox sky, a glow behind the Royal Society Mountains from the sun who is taking it’s last few rounds behind the mountains.  By mid October it will be circling above the horizon for four months.  I decided to walk down to the Chapel to get a better look at the twilight over the mountains and McMurdo Sound and ended up going inside the Chapel as today had been -40 degrees with a -73 degree wind-chill. 

The Chapel was dark and quiet, so I went in and walked up on the raised part to look out the window.  It was beautiful.  Twilight coming through the stained glass of the Chapel’s main window overlooking the sound.  I stood there for a while, alone in the dark, looking out over the silhouette of the mountains. 

Deciding it was time to leave I couldn’t help but sit down at the old piano, not quite in tune, but a million times better than the plug in keyboard and played through Moonlight Sonata, which I can finally play by memory.  So wonderful to have a piano here.  With my back to the twilight and stain glass but facing the twilight lit wooden panels above the piano, I played my favorite song, the one that always reminds me of lying under our piano at home, while Dad plays it just before bedtime. 

The light was too beautiful to leave so I went back to the window, but seeing the industrial buildings that took away from the mountains and light, I grabbed a stacked chair and sat it down in the middle of the small room…one chair, one person, a dark chapel, and the beauty of an equinox twilight in Antarctica.  I had my headphones on and was listening to a Pearl Jam mix and I started to sing softly with the music.  It was good to sing, in a world where there is not much personal time or space, how wonderful to have a chapel to oneself, to sing and sing.  It didn’t take too long before I was singing as one sings when one hasn’t in a month.  It was nice.  I often forget how much I need to do that.  It was then onto some new Chadwick Stokes songs before it was time to leave.  Singing the harmonies and then along with Chad, hearing the voice closest to mine in my ears.  It was nice.  Almost felt like I could touch those I love who are not here with me.  If I could not touch them, they have touched me. 

Got to go to sleep now.  It’s past my bedtime.  Just wanted to share a bit of my day. 

Sunday, September 04, 2011

Week one.

The Sun almost visible above McMurdo's horizon.
The sun is above the horizon now for almost 8 hours now, (growing by about 15 minutes a day) yet I have yet to see it as there are mountains to the north.  Any day now, the sun should hit the station at around noon, through a saddle on the flanks of Mt. Erebus.  The dusk and dawn light is wonderful.  That has long been my favorite part of the day and it is wonderful to have it last so long.  At night the stars are wonderful and I eagerly await the auroras, ever hopeful there will be clear weather if they come. 


I'm enjoying my Sunday, my one day off, which included a treadmill run (too windy outside), Sunday Brunch, some time at the ham radio shack, some emails and such.  Very nice to wake up this morning to the slowly growing light instead of the blinding light of the summer. 

 
The HAM radio shack.

 
Looking out over town on the way back from the shack.  The big blue building is where the galley is.
It got a bit colder today.  Down to -20C (-4F) with windchills of -33C (-27F), so I've got my goggles as I walk around town.  I almost shaved my face after the relatively warm temps -10C or so of the last week, but after today, I think I'll keep the beard coming.  I was issued a carheart jacket with a snap on hood.  When I put up the hood, and the googles, I have the strange sensation that, in fact, I am Han Solo on the planet Hoth.  If only I had a Ton Ton to ride...



The HAM radio antenna.


We've been working hard on our South Pole power station and now we are also getting some small power stations for small science groups together.   The first few days here were stormy.  When it cleared up, I could feel my mood improve.  I realized how I look fowrad to seeing the sun after not actually seeing it for a week, and then I think of the winter-over folks who have not seen it in many, many months!  The sun brings health and energy to us humans, especially when we are alternative energy specialists!  We cannot test our panels until we have sunlight.  So I feel very connected to the sun these days.  And throughout the day, I watch the moon do a circle above us, neither rising or setting, just circling us like the sun will do by mid october.  My best to all of you!

Making the roads out the Sea Ice runway.

Thursday, September 01, 2011

To the Dark Ice

 

When the time came to leave Christchurch for the Ice, I was ready.  We had been scheduled to be there for two nights, but had been there for four as weather at McMurdo prevented us from departing.  So this past Monday, it went like this.

0237 We get a call in my hotel room that the check-in time has been delayed for 4 hours.  This is very good news as it means I don’t have to awake at 0300 for a 0400 check in time.  (My roommate was a 65 year old diesel generator mechanic named Barry, most people call him Bear, from Texas…awaiting his first trip to the Ice, though he’d down contract work in Iraq with mortars raining into his compound!  Holy smokes.)
0600 Wake up for a treadmill run to make the legs less ansty on the flight down, followed by hotel continental breakfast.
0730 Board the shuttle bus with all my bags.
0800 Change into my issued ECW (Extreme Cold Weather) gear and check in my bags.
0920 Briefing for working in Antarctica.
1000 Go through security, then back into the briefing room for an hour as there was an issue with the hydrolics in the plane’s tail.
1120 Start boarding the plane
~1200 Take off for the Ice





                                      


~1700 Arrive on the Ice!  (I asked to go into the cockpit was too late – I had been too busy standing in the back looking out the small window of the C-17 so I missed the cockpit runs.)

                                         

                                     

~1830 Arrive to McMurdo after a 13 mile ride in one of the Deltas.  Not the fastest or most comfortable ride into town.  This is followed by dinner and our arrival briefing by the station manager, the recreation officer, the environmental folks, and on and on.  Only afterwards to we get our sheets, our room key and internet account info and then to our rooms to unpack! 

                               

It was a tiring day with a lot of briefings, sitting and travel! 


I have now done three days of work (and of course, some more trainings, including how to drive a truck down here).  Me and Erin, one of the guys I was a rigger with last year, have been working on a solar installation for the South Pole’s visitor center tent which will be up this year as it’s the 100 year anniversary of Scott and Amundsen (my hero) getting to the pole.  (They expect hundreds of visitors!)   To the pole I’ll get to go in October to set it up! 

Otherwise, I’ve been settling in.  Running on the treadmill as it’s dark before and after work, went to a yoga class last night, and working on getting organized.  It’s been cloudy most of the time, with blowing snow almost all the time, but the temperatures have been relatively mild for this time of year.  7 degrees F or so.  Downright balmy...when the wind is not blowing, which isn't too often! 

                                       

Tonight I walked down to Robert Scott’s hut of more than a hundred years ago to look at the evening sky and look back at the station in dark mode.  It is wonderful to see the stars from Antarctica and I hope to see the auroras soon! 




                                      

Today we had refresher training on what to do if caught in a storm without a vehicle, which includes how to set up a tent and how to operate a stove…I think I got those now! 

Okay, that’s all for now.  Thanks, as always, for reading and for being interested.  It makes it easier to be so far away when I know people enjoy reading.  Don’t forget to share your stories with me too!  My best to all of you!



My address for anyone inclined:

Ben Urmston, RPSC
McMurdo Station
PSC 469 Box 700
APO AP 96599-1035



Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Sailing in the Bahamas

Pirated from Rob's Lloyd's blog:
http://fishershornpipesail.blogspot.com/

When you smile with a snorkel mask on your face water trickles in through the wrinkles next to your nose and slowly fills up the mask with water. If you are SCUBA diving this means you have to look up towards the surface and breathe out through your nose to clear the mask of water. The more you smile or laugh the more you clear your mask until, if you are playing underwater backgammon against your friend Benny Urmston, you are stuck in a downwards spiral of dice rolling, hand signals (not always polite), laughing, and mask clearing.

Overall our summer trip was fun and relaxing. We finally got chance to experiment with different sail combinations and pints of sail and found the FHP to a pleasure to sail in relatively light conditions. The weather was HOT and depending on the bugs some of the crew found it nicer to sleep on deck in the breeze.

Nadine On Deck, FHP
The crew was Ashley, our winter trip sailor/blogger extraordinaire, Benny, from The Hass expedition, Nadine, and I. Ashley, as usual, was completely impervious to seasickness and made some delicious curry for dinner. Benny spent as much time in and under the water as possible as he is about to spend the next six months in Antarctica.

Small Key Near Norman's Key
Nadine and Ash in a Sea Cave, Exumas Land and Sea Park





Waddington, B.C. Mountaineering

A fun month leading a 14 person mountaineering expedition. Amazing country up in the range. Vans, sea planes, helicopters, crevasses, peaks, glaciers and excellent people. Didn't see anyone but our re-ration helicopter pilot for the whole month! Here are some pics:













Tuesday, February 22, 2011

EARTHQUAKE

It isn’t every day you are thankful for forgetting something, or sleeping until exactly the moment you decided to wake up, or for having exactly the thing you did for breakfast, which took an exact amount of time to eat. But today I was thankful for every little decision I made, normally good or bad, because here I am, alive and well, having survived the 6.3 magnitude Christchurch earthquake that has claimed the lives of many. (The news now says dozens, the official count was in the 70s and maybe more than a hundred are missing from two buildings…the statistics are bound to rise for the worse.)

I was on the public library’s second floor using the free wireless internet when the ground started to shake. “What the hell is happening,” I thought, and then my mind said, “Christchurch…history of recent earthquakes…this is an earthquake…what to you do in an earthquake…dive under your elementary school desk of course…” So that’s what I did and went under the table on my hands and knees and wondered about my future as the ground moved back and forth, like I was on a blue gym mat that people on either side were playing a tug of war. The earth felt like it moved more than a meter in each direction during the big moves.

While the Earth was moving back and fourth, I wondered what was to become of the afternoon. Is my destiny to join the historical masses that have been trapped inside a building after a natural or unnatural disaster? Am I to be crushed inside this building? Am I to be injured by flying debris? Not much time to ponder…Time to get out of the library. “I’ll go down this isle, no, I can’t do that one…or that one…or that one…” as the floor between the isles was a mound of books. No books were left on the shelves. All were strewn about the floor after having taken flight during the shaking. I am happy I was not in a knife shop.

Outside I went to join the hordes of folks wondering what to do where to go. No one around me seemed hurt and wanting to make contact with my family, who I knew was soon to hear about this on the news, I checked to see if the library wireless was still active. It was and I made a gmail phone call to my girlfriend, Glynny, who is to join me here in a few days, and to my parents. The voice was breaking up, but I was able to tell Mom to go to facebook chat. Thank you facebook (small aftershock just now – seems like we’ve had a hundred today)…though it is not easy to convey the emotion of being in a large earthquake over facebook chat to those who haven’t just been though what I had. Was I scared? Well, I thought there was a chance I was going to die, so yeah, I was scared.

There were folks everywhere like me not knowing where to go or what to do except move away from buildings. The chaos was in part fascinating. Which direction is safe, will another quake happen, are buildings about to fall, are my friends okay? How can I help, who do I talk to, where am I supposed to go? From the internet, I was able to learn that it was a 6.2 or maybe 6.3 (can’t remember) and that it’s center was 10 miles SE of the city and at a depth of 5km. Though the quake that hit Christchurch in Sept. as 7.2 or so, it was 20 miles away and at a depth of 10km. (There’s another aftershock…a little rumble and a little rattling…) Because of the relative shallowness and proximity to the city center of the quakes epicenter, there was substantially more damage than what occurred in Sept. The Sept. quake also occurred during the night, so very few people were out and about, contrary to today’s quake at 12:51 pm. Eventually, after numerous littler aftershocks, I started to make my way back to the YMCA. On the way there was much destruction. Scaffolding in a crumpled pile, buildings that had avalanched onto the street, asphalt that had buckled like the ice pressure ridges of the Antarctic, and water in the streets from burst water pipes.

The YMCA looked like it had survived unscathed but I was told by a representative that no one would be allowed to go inside until the building inspector had declared it safe to do so. Knowing there were likely more aftershocks to occur and that the demand for building inspectors must far outweigh the supply, I headed to the botanical gardens for its open spaces and for lack of somewhere better to go. The city center was being evacuated and I joined the flow to the west where I eventually met up with some Ice friends. It was very nice to see familiar faces, to know that friends were still alive, and it was good to share stories. Some had been in the gardens all along, but some had seen people crushed right in front of them, others saw moving cars crushed with falling debris. All of us were a bit shaken up.

After a bit we walked to a clearer part of the park to escape the potential hazard of large trees. Those trees are strong! They are not going to fall….wrong. The trees, yes, are strong, they did not break, but the connection between the roots and the soil around…not as strong. We later saw whole trees uprooted.

After borrowing some phones we finally made contact with the CDC (Clothing Distribution Center) of the US Antarctic program and they escaped damage and were sending shuttles to pick us up. We eventually arrived, still not knowing what to do except line up to use the internet to let friends and family know we were okay. Immediately there was a facebook group organized to find Ice folks who might be affected by the quake. A supposed 500 Ice folks are in the country, and there were over a hundred that landed last night with me, so most of them are likely to still be in Christchurch. On request for Erin Heard, a fellow rigger, looking to help spread the word of safe folks, I posted all the names of people at the CDC along with those that had checked in safely onto the facebook page. Facebook is an amazing thing at times like these. It became a way to instantly spread information to masses and served as a gathering point in trying to locate friends and family.

Hours were spent compiling the names, making sure they got entered properly, and adding more check marks by people who had turned up safe and sound. Many are safe and there must be close to a hundred people now at the CDC. I was very happy to have that job of sharing information. It gave many people much relief, but there are still many who have not checked in. There are lots of Ice folks here, and there was a lot of damage. I don’t like the odds and worry about the coming days. Lives have been lost or forever changed.

The New Zealand response was swift. Within minutes there were folks everywhere with hard hats and orange safety vests, starting to organize and direct things. Clearly they had learned from the recent earthquake history of the city and they seemed ready. There was hope of power being restored by this evening, but we shall see tomorrow.

The hundred of us are a mixed lot. Some have nothing with them, some just a passport. Some a backpack with all their camping gear. Some will get their bags back, some are most likely never going to see their stuff again. My things are in the YMCA, which, as luck would have it, is an emergency structure and shelter built to withstand a quake with a magnitude in the 8’s. Some folks are supposed to fly out tomorrow, but have no bags, no passport and no chance of seeing either again. Supposedly the US consulate is going to give some emergency paperwork and ease the burdens of transport.

It is now past midnight, and my eyes are finally tired. I tried to go to sleep earlier, but the body would not allow it. A bit of adrenaline still going through the system. It is not often I chose the spot where I lie down depending on what can go flying or fall down upon me. It is raining out, and I feel very lucky to be in a place with friends and phones, computers and internet, electricity and toilets, drinkable water and sleeping bags, food. Earlier this afternoon, I reflected on the fact that I had no idea if I was going to be able to eat anything tonight. It is an interesting thing to think, “I have no idea where to find food.” Yet, sadly, to much of the world it is an all too frequent occurrence. Many others of the city are now in public parks under tents. It is not a pleasant night to be outside and I pray for the residents of Christchurch and the people who have been affected by this. I am happy to be safe and sound. I got lucky. I had walked in places where had the quake happened a little earlier or later, I could have been injured or maybe killed. It’s all just a random chain of events that led me to be where I was and I am mighty thankful things went the way they did. Now I wait to confirm this for the others who have not been heard from.

And now I’ll try to sleep, though it’s hard to escape the feeling that the ground is ever so slightly still moving back and fourth. I’ll try now to get some sleep for who knows what tomorrow will bring.

Off The Ice

I am now thousands of feet above the southern ocean packed in a sea of seats and red jackets. There is an excitement in the air which relates very much to the excitement that exists as the C-17 flies southward in the beginning of the season. People around me are very excited about different food options, the smells of the living world, and the freedom to do what they choose.

I am lucky in that I do not feel burnt out, my job, for the most part is not mundane. I still marvel at getting paid to fly in helicopters to remote locations with one or two other folks to do our work, which often involves climbing and assembling towers and then dealing with tools and hardware sometimes at heights of one hundred feet off the ground. I am one of the lucky ones and do not take it for granted.

So now we fly north leaving behind the schedules and routines of the last three, four, or for some, six months. No more free room each night. No more free food. No more free gas. At the same time, no more scheduled meals, no more alarm clocks, no more 6 day work weeks. At least for a time. Many folks do this year after year, and so their off-ice time becomes just that – their off-ice time.

Yesterday, I went for a wonderful run around Observation Hill. It is a three mile loop that gets one a feeling of being far from the station. It was a favorite of mine this last week as the sea ice was disintegrating more and more with each passing day. How wonderful it is to see the open water in front of the station. It has not opened this much in some ten years! It is amazing what a difference it makes in the feel and energy of a place. The cold frozen continent suddenly becomes a living place. Whose waters connect it to rest of the world. I think, I theoretically, could get in a boat leave the shores of McMurdo and some time later (after lots of adventures) arrive back in Massachusetts! What a splendid idea! The smell of the ocean alone is enough to stop and marvel at the sea. A small whiff sets some neurons or something in my brain firing. McMurdo now included in my memories and experience of being on the sea. What I wouldn’t have done to have a little sailboat to do some exploring and see things from the perspective of the sea. Someday…someday…

During my the run, the wind was so light, I stopped to sit down and look upon the sea. It was warm enough sitting on the volcanic rock of Ob Hill, even in shorts, one long sleeve shirt and a vest, to sit for nearly 20 minutes and enjoy Antarctica around me. The water was making noises like whales as the waves found channels and other features in the ice. Then there were the penguins making noises just as we’ve all become familiar with from watching March of the Penguins. And then of course, the water breaking up the sea, taking one jig saw ice piece after another and quietly pulling it north so new pieces could be pulled. Had I left just a week or so ago, I would have missed the most beautiful part of the season.

The sun finally did set my last two nights. Not until almost 2am, but the darkness at those times (yes, I did wake up to see the light of the sunset) was refreshing. A change of light does wonders for the spirit.

And now a little interruption to look out the window near the rear of the plane. I don’t want to miss the Southern Ocean if the clouds have cleared! Nothing but clouds below. Someday I shall be there making this off-ice transit on a ship. Someday hopefully, on my own ship!

People around me partake in various activities. Many read, some play with their computers, many sleep and some just stare blankly in front of them at nothing in particular. I’ll later write in my journal, continue monitoring the window at the back, look at other people and wonder about their lives, but mostly look around at the exposed wires and ducts and systems on the inside of the C-17 and then dream from there. So much to learn.

Nighttime, for the last 3 months, has been out of reach. Even though the sun set the last few days, it was for a very short time and it never went very far below the horizon – perhaps not even the 6 degrees necessary to qualify for civil twilight. Darkness lies to the north. And with darkness comes the magic of being able to see past our atmosphere, into the heavens beyond. Trapped have I been these last months. One of the pleasures of climbing mountains or flying in planes or helicopters is being able to see long distances. One of the pleasures of living on Earth is being able to see far beyond it.

North to the night, to the living, to the color green! Thanks for following along!

Monday, January 31, 2011

Back To Byrd Camp

Back to Byrd camp to take down the tower and antennas for the season which is all but complete. Many of the camp staff has left and all the buildings are being taken apart and stored on a winter burm, which is a raised section of snow to minimize the burying in the winter blowing snow. I spent three days there, we had splendid weather for the most part. -15 to -25 C which was cold, but I was still able so skate ski and run on the skiway.

The outhouses.
My tent.
My yellow spaceman adventurer friend.

And a video for the kids at The Learning Center for the Deaf and for Bruce B.!

Wind Generators and Rhomic Antenna Towers at Black Island

A Black Island visit was next on the list to service wind generator towers, the big high frequency rhombic antenna towers and to check the outer covering of the dome that protects the big satellite dish inside.


We had to shut down the entire station's communication with the US. Woke up at 12:30 am, while most of the station was asleep, to repair a few rips in the super strong fabric that envelopes the dish. It is super strong but the wind tears over Black Island and this combined with little volcanic rocks can sometimes do some damage.






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